Table or Booth

Xicohtencatl in the Limelight
by Bess Hochstein

Last month the spotlights were beaming on the bright yellow Mexican restaurant perched on a hillside on Route 7 in Great Barrington. But while Xicohtencatl normally glows like a beacon from the outside, the spotlights this day were especially intense inside the restaurant. As chef/owner Angel Espinoza prepared his signature mole poblano, he simultaneously prepared for his fifteen minutes of fame, which will come as a segment on the Food Network's hit television show, Emeril Live.

Emeril's producers came calling because of Espinoza's skills with the pungent, complex flavors of authentic Mexican cuisine, which the chef learned from his mother in their native land, south of the border. While Espinoza's reputation for moles – traditional sauces made from a variety of ingredients including multiple peppers, nuts, fruits and spices, the most famous of which is the chocolate-based mole poblano – attracted the television crew (for a segment on Mexican food), his restaurant has earned him a loyal following among folks for whom eating good food is a participatory event, as opposed to those TV fans who just watch how it's made from the couch.

Xicoh's, as the locals know it, has a bright, cheerful, and welcoming interior, with the brilliant colors and warmth of Mexico. While the menu includes familiar Mexican dishes -- such as guacamole, nachos, and several varieties of quesadillas, fajitas, burritos and enchiladas -- adventurous eaters will find items beyond the standard Americanized Mexican fare. For example, Espinoza has a way with mushrooms – or "hongos" in Spanish. Fungus lovers can choose the "Crepas de Hongos," an appetizer of wild mushroom crepes with chipotle and a light cream sauce, and continue their meal with either "Shiitake Chipotle" or "Attack of the Wild Mushrooms," which features local, organic shiitake and oyster mushrooms sautéed with garlic, chipotle, and cilantro on a bed of mesclun greens. Meat-eaters may gravitate toward "Carnitas," slow-cooked pork with guacamole and grilled scallions and cactus leaf; "Costillas de Puerco con Chipotle," pork ribs marinated in achiote paste, grilled and topped with chipotle sauce; or "Mixiote de Cordero," lamb steamed in parchment paper with herbs, spices, and red salsa. Chicken turns up in a vast array of dishes, including enchiladas, embueltos, and chilaquiles, and serves as a canvas for Espinoza's soon-to-be famous moles, such as the rich, dark Mole Oaxaca over chicken breast and the "Pipian con Pollo," featuring a creamy orange chipotle sauce made with sesame seeds, served over chicken pieces. Vegetarians will also find plenty of options – in addition to the mushroom dishes (which happen to be vegan) Xicoh's serves up "Chiles Rellenos de Espinica," roasted poblano peppers filled with spinach and cheese; and "Calabacita Mexicana," zucchini sautéed with tomato, onion, garlic, cilantro, and chipotle, with a light cheese sauce.

It's evident that chipotle plays a starring role, but other tasty peppers such as jalapeno, ancho, poblano and guajillo lend their flair to the fare. Nevertheless, Espinoza shows a delicate hand with spices – the food is flavorful but never too fiery. But because some do like it hot, he's got an array of spicy salsas for those who want to amp up the heat. As an antidote for the hot heads, Xicoh's has an extensive selection of tequilas and margaritas.

When it's the weather that's hot, Xicoh's offers another advantage; it's one of the few Berkshire restaurants with plentiful outdoor seating. With the arrival of spring, one of the most pleasant places to dine is on Xicoh's wrap-around porch, sipping Sangria in the setting sun. The seating area is sheltered by a "natural fence" of tall potted plants. Fortunately, al fresco diners at Xicohtencatl haven't been cursed by the restaurant's name, which is pronounced "she-co-ten-cat" and means "angry bumblebee" in Nahuatl, a language of the Aztec Native Americans indigenous to central Mexico.