Taste of Tradition, part two

By Cynthia Saunders Quinones

April 2009

When Davide (pronounced “Dah-vee-day”) Manzo, owner of Trattoria Rustica, first came to the United States in the 70s,  the first thing he did was assume the name “David" so that he would fit in.  An Italian native, Davide spent his childhood playing among the ruins of Pompeii, probably never imagining that he would travel across the Atlantic, change his name, and then, years later, after a personal revelation, change it back.  Davide's passion for authenticity rings true when you are standing in the heart of the restaurant he has built with his own hands. At the Pittsfield eatery, he has found a truly artistic way of preserving his heritage and sharing it with those around him.

The Trattoria Rustica atmosphere is at once comforting and mysterious, a perfectly romantic setting.  Light spills out of carved terracotta lanterns along the walls and flickers at each table's candles, creating a hushed sense of secrecy.  The seating playfully rambles through out the space, filling every available nook, and even spilling out onto the terrace in finer weather, where Davide often hosts live Italian music, or offers his guests the chance to sit back and enjoy an Italian film.  The richly textured stone and brick walls, in combination with the ceiling's heavy wooden beams, and the classic artwork give the space a sense of festive permanence.  They seem to say, "Why rush?  Relax and enjoy the present moment." 

The authentic food, known as Cucina Napoletana, is clearly a labor of love at Trattoria Rustica, and is complimented by an extensive wine menu and delightfully knowledgeable staff.  At the suggestion of my server, I found myself savoring a dry, full-bodied Montepulciano, its deep red hue dancing in the candlelight at my table.  For an appetizer, I was tempted by the Antipasto Di Verdure, a house specialty comprised of grilled eggplant, zucchini, and fennel, and given a flavorful punch with peppers, sun dried tomatoes, and olives.  On this particular cool spring evening, though, I decided to sample the cauliflower soup, a gentle, buttery puree topped with fresh parsley. 

My main course was the Costolletto di Maile, a well balanced plate of organic Berkshire pork, steamed spinach topped with roasted garlic, and a pie wedge of homemade polenta.  Baked in the traditional, handmade brick oven, the pork chop was crisp and flavorful on the outside, and sweetly tender on the inside.  I would strongly recommend trying one of the several oven-baked options, such as the pork, veal or lamb, but if you are a vegetarian, consider one of the fresh baked pasta dishes instead, such as the Gemelli alla Sorrentina--fresh gemelli oven-baked with fresh tomato, house mozzarella, parmiggiano, and basil.  The experience will be just as rewarding. The dessert menu at Trattoria Rustica is also full of classic Italian delights--gelato, sorbet, tiramisu--I went for my favorite staple in Italian bakery, a cannoli, complimented by an after dinner espresso.

When I had finished my dessert, Davide came out to join me and we sat together, talking about the history of the restaurant.  After I expressed an interest in its origins (I’m fascinated by the rescue and renewal of old spaces,) he showed me a small, brown leather photo album documenting nearly every phase of the reconstruction process.  He was in many of the pictures doing the work himself, transforming a gray basement into a romantic hideaway.  Davide was smoothing the cement and building the handicap ramp, tiling the floors, building layer by layer the beautiful brick oven  (most amusing were the pictures of him actually inside the oven.)  Embracing the decision to be as authentic as possible, the tiles and bricks were all imported from Italy.  As we walked through the space, he pointed out all the details inspired by his childhood in Pompeii.  He pulled an encyclopedia of mythology from the middle of the cookbook rack, and opened up to a page bookmarked by a huge dried clover to show me how the art from the tragic ruins matched the framed replicas on the restaurant's walls.

After spending some time exploring these lovingly crafted and kept Italian restaurants, it's easy to see how a dedicated person with a clear vision can carry that vision with them anywhere, and preserve their memories in a new world of their own making.  Dining in Trattoria Rustica, I saw a restaurant that does more than reflect the artistry and character of a man’s home--it honors those memories; it polishes and shares them.  In the food, and music, and aesthetic surroundings, we are permitted to experience a glimmer of the magic of an ancient Italian heritage.  The love that surrounds those memories is baked into the food itself, and uncorked with the wine, and reverberating in the tiles on the floor, creating the feeling of a summer night somewhere very far away.