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Summer restaurant round-up: Fresh news, hot off the grill
By Bess Hochstein
July 2008
Haven in Lenox: The longstanding Lenox diner Carol’s has been reborn as Haven Café and Bakery, a crisp and airy spot with graciously s paced tables and free wireless Internet service. The atmosphere and amenities are lovely, and the food is even better – mostly organic and all lovingly prepared by self-taught chef/owner Shelly Williams, a favorite local caterer who has a way with fresh, local foods. Haven is open weekdays except Tuesday from 7 am to 5 pm, serving breakfast till 11:30 and lunch until 2 pm, with beverages, house-baked goods and prepared food available throughout the day to eat in or take out.
Mission in Pittsfield: Spanish-style nibbles and wines have a new home on North Street in Pittsfield. With its textured  vermillion walls and an inviting v-shaped window seat, Mission Bar & Tapas has fast become a favorite after-work and late-night destination. The tempting menu of small hot and cold dishes is replete with traditional treats such as Marcona Almonds, Boquerones, Garlic Shrimp, Tortilla Espagnole, and Chorizo and Clams, all of which pair nicely with Spanish wine selections such as the refreshing Conclass Rueda, the earthy Vinos Pinol Ludivicus, or a sparking Cava. Mission is open Tuesday through Saturday, 4 pm to midnight.
Alta in Lenox: The Church Street storefront that formerly housed Napa in Lenox has taken on an Italian name, even though the owner, Aurelian Telle – who has worked at Wheatleigh, Asters, and Spice – is French.  Alta Restaurant & Wine Bar is open seven days a week, serving lunch from 11:30 am to 3 pm; dinner from 5 to 10 pm; and drinks late into the night. The menu boasts nine salads at lunch, ranging from standards (Caesar, Cobb, Spinach) to more exotic (Quinoa, Asian Citrus), all of which can be customized with the addition of grilled chicken, salmon, shrimp, or scallops. There’s a similar array of Panini, plus soups, crab cakes, quesadilla, burrito, omelet of the day, and the Alta Burger. The dinner menu reflects global influences; choices include Pan Roasted Center Cut Pork Chop with Mojo Sauce, Sautéed Mushroom, Caramelized Onions, Homemade Smashed Potatoes, and Braised Napa Cabbage; Fettuccine with Artichoke Pesto, Arugula, and Cherry Tomatoes with optional grilled scallops; Moroccan Tagine with Couscous; and Salmon “A la Plancha” with Hoisin Plum Sauce, Wild Rice and Sautéed Bok Choy. Thoughtful wine-by-the-glass suggestions accompany each menu listing.
Spice reborn as Jae’s Spice: The centerpiece of downtown Pittsfield’s restaurant scene is back in business. Jae’s Spice held its opening celebration at the end of July, introducing a new menu that mixes some specialties from Spice with local entrepreneur and restaurateur Jae Chung’s trademark pan-Asian cuisine.  Spice lovers will welcome back favorites from executive chef Douglas Luf, such as mushroom “toad in a hole,” chilled charred melon gazpacho, and a selection of flavorful flatbreads. Asian influences inform appetizers such as Mandoo and Shumai dumplings, Tuna Tataki with Ponzu sauce, and Seafood scallion pancakes; “Soup Bowl” meals such as Shrimp Tempura Udon, Korean dumpling soup, and Spicy Kimchee soup; and main courses of Tempura and Teriyaki. Other Asian-inflected entrees include Miso- and Sake-glazed sea bass with stir-fried seasonal vegetables; Shanghai boneless duck with pea pods, black mushrooms, corn, and seasonal vegetable with red chili brown sauce; Grilled American Kobe meatloaf with whipped potatoes, lemon asparagus, and spicy smoked pepper ketchup; Fresh Maine lobster Cantonese-style with ginger, scallion, and black bean or salted pepper sauce; and Chicken and mango stir-fry with seasonal vegetables and mango sauce. The central bar has transformed into a full sushi bar, and the lounge area is now embellished with colorful curtains, throw pillows, and engaging artwork from the neighboring Ferrin Gallery.
Navy chef sails from White House to Asters: Ron Reda, the new chef at Asters Steaks and Raw Bar, has some positively presidential credentials. Influenced by his Italian heritage -- especially his father, who was passionate about food -- Reda entered the culinary profession in the Navy after helping a friend in the galley prepare a simple pasta dish “a la Reda,” which caught the attention of the ship’s captain.  In 1995 Reda was assigned to the White House, where he served as kitchen supervisor during the Clinton Administration, providing meals for the first family as well as visitors and dignitaries. In 2000 Reda returned to civilian life and began his career in the restaurant industry. While the Asters menu stays true to the steakhouse/raw bar tradition – heavy on the meat and seafood, plus classic sides of smashed potatoes, creamed spinach, and fries – vegetarians will also find options, including Grilled Corn Polenta with sautéed mushrooms, capers, tomato purée and parmesan cheese, and the Zesty Vegetable Patty: seasonal veggies blended with barley, bulgur, and garbanzo beans on a bed of sautéed spinach and sun dried tomato puree, topped with curried goat cheese. Early birds will appreciate the “4-6 Fix,” a choice of special entrees, desserts, and coffee or tea for $15.95, offered Monday through Thursday. The sprawling restaurant has many attractive dining environments but the best bet for the summer is the peaceful patio equipped with fire pits, where you can enjoy your meal fireside and al fresco.
Watch this space for more details on these hot spots and other Berkshire dining establishments.
About Bess Hochstein
Bess J.M. Hochstein came to the Berkshires as a second-homeowner before deciding to move here full time. Previously a communications executive, she's now a freelance writer living in Tyringham with her corgis Duffy and Hobbs and K. She writes for several publications, including Berkshire Living, the Boston Globe, New England Wine Gazette, and Healing Lifestyles & Spas magazine.
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