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Mezze Turns Twelve with New Chef at the Helm
By Bess Hochstein
February 2008
Last month, Mezze Bistro + Bar turned twelve years old. But before this popular Williamstown hotspot reached its anniversary, it underwent a significant change in the kitchen. After four years at Mezze’s stove, James Tracey returned to Manhattan, where he is now head chef at Tom Collichio’s high-profile restaurant, CRAFT. Before he left, he handed over Mezze’s chef’s toque to Joji Sumi, who has broad restaurant experience, ranging from sushi to fine French cuisine.
Sumi came to Mezze through his acquaintance with Omar Montoya, chef at Mezze’s North Adams sister restaurant, Café Latino, which is profiled in the current (March/April ’08) food and dining issue of Berkshire Living magazine. The two had worked together a decade ago, preparing haute cuisine under the watchful eye of Monotya’s former Culinary Institute of America instructor, Richard Gabriel, in Greenwich, Connecticut.
Having lost touch over the years, Montoya re-established contact with Sumi this summer, inviting him to the Berkshires to check out Mezze. Sumi drove east from Michigan to Williamstown and on his way home—after one evening and one day of looking over the kitchens and talking with the staff and management about philosophy and operations—he called co-owner Nancy Thomas and told her he wanted to be the new chef she was looking for.
Sumi made his “soft entry” into Mezze in October ’07, taking time to learn about the restaurant’s history, its clientele, its reputation, and its emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients and before making his mark. Gradually, the Japanese/American chef is adding new menu items that reflect his background, blending classic French technique with the influences of his Japanese heritage. In fact, after tasting his Gyoza (Japanese dumplings filled with pork), Thomas requested that he add them as a “small plate,” and it’s already a hit.
But not all of his new dishes have a Japanese accent; another first course features Sweet Maine Shrimp + Meyer Lemon Aioli + Watercress + Avocado. He has also introduced Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine Sauce + Winter Root Vegetables + Fresh Horseradish, which is destined to become a cold weather classic. Of course he’ll respect his diners’ preferences and maintain Mezze favorites – such as Roasted Scallops + Cauliflower Puree + Roasted Hen-of-the-Woods Mushrooms + Truffle Vinaigrette – which he is executing flawlessly.
Other Mezze traditions that will carry on include a congenial reception, comfortable atmosphere, good lighting and music, as well as professional and friendly service. The dining room and bar area manage to be both urban cool and welcomingly warm at the same time.
While you can have either a casual meal or a formal feast at Mezze, it’s not a place to eat and run. For many people who live in North County, Mezze is a convivial gathering spot, while for us it’s well worth the drive from Tyringham as an occasion destination—somewhere to enjoy the sophisticated ambience as much as the mélange of flavors and textures in each dish, a place to linger over a selection from the wine list, which holds many uncommon gems.
Chef Suji also remains faithful to Mezze’s long-held “buy local” ethos. Mezze is a member of Berkshire Grown—our region’s farm-to-table organization—as are Café Latino, Mezze Catering, and the newest member of the Mezze Inc. family, Allium in Great Barrington. This emphasis on the highest quality ingredients combined with the creative alchemy taking place in the kitchen are among the many reasons Mezze has been around for 12 years in an industry where one out of three restaurants fail in their first year. With this winning combination, it’s easy to imagine that Mezze will remain among the Berkshire’s top dining destinations for at least another dozen years.
Farm fresh news: What’s the first crop of the year in the Berkshires? Not strawberries, not asparagus – it’s maple syrup. To celebrate the new year’s first harvest, five local chefs have teamed up to create a maple-inspired dinner on March 12 at Spice. Chefs participating in Berkshire Grown’s memorable, multi-course maple extravaganza include Brian Alberg of the Red Lion Inn; Christopher Brooks of Blantyre; Peter Platt of The Old Inn on the Green and Douglas Luf of Spice.
The evening includes a tasting of local beers from Barrington Brewery and Pittsfield Brew Works beginning at 6 pm. Dinner starts at 7 pm. Tickets are $55 for members of Berkshire Grown, $45 for farmers, and $65 for the public. For reservations, contact Berkshire Grown at 413-528-0041.
About Bess Hochstein
Bess J.M. Hochstein came to the Berkshires as a second-homeowner before deciding to move here full time. Previously a communications executive, she's now a freelance writer living in Tyringham with her corgis Duffy and Hobbs and K. She writes for several publications, including Berkshire Living, the Boston Globe, New England Wine Gazette, and Healing Lifestyles & Spas magazine.