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Confronting the Cold For Curry
By Cynthia Saunders Quinones
January 2009
It was one of those biting, dark, one-digit temperature nights; the kind on which you might scurry home, race inside, and go to bed early with extra blankets. But if you hid in your house all winter, you'd be missing out on all of the wonderful culinary sanctuaries scattered throughout the Berkshires. With this in mind, my husband, Mike, and I met up on North Street in Pittsfield to hide away in someone else's house: the House of India. 
A reassuring gust of warmth struck us as we entered off the street, and we were greeted warmly, too, and encouraged to sit anywhere we liked. Preferring the coziness of a booth, we selected a spot toward the back, right under a woven illustration of the Taj Mahal. A musical Bollywood romance was softly playing out on the televisions tucked unobtrusively in opposing corners of the restaurant. "Come to your senses and listen to me/Look into my eyes and you will know my love," I read in the subtitles under the smiling, bedazzling team of dancing women. Appropriate, I thought, as this was probably the first place I ever tried and became enchanted with Indian food. The space was bright and cheery, and it was easy to forget the chill that lay beyond the darkened windows as we ordered our favorite House of India beverages--a mango lassi (a sweet and rich yogurt-based drink) and a frothy cup of hot masala chai tea.
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The restaurant's welcoming manager, Pramod Warriar, was a wonderful host, happy to offer informed suggestions and details for the appreciative customer. It was his insight that guided us toward an exciting appetizer we had never tried before--thin, crisp wafer-like bread called Papadum, topped with a variety of sweet brown and green chutneys and served with a side of red, spicy onion chutney. This flavorful explosion of tastes offered a perfect preface to the rich, complex flavors to follow. Our typical favorite dishes at the House of India include the Mango Chicken, and the Mali Kofta, a dish comprised of vegetable dumplings in a thick cream sauce. This time, though, we decided to venture into unknown territory. 
Sticking to our habit of sharing dishes, we ordered the Chicken Bahar, tender pieces of chicken mixed with tomatoes, beans, carrots, squash, and peppers, served in a sweet, light, red curry and topped with thin slivers of fresh ginger. This curry, complimented by the Palak Panier -- a creamy spinach dish made with generous chunks of traditional Indian cheese -- offered a dynamic range of tastes that were equally attractive to look at. We also ordered a serving of plain, fresh naan--soft, warm flatbread--and sampled a couple of delicious, cooling reita and katchumber relishes on the side to counterbalance the spice of the main courses. (For me, the reita, made of yogurt, fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions, always evokes the feeling of summer (even if it is only 8 degrees Fahrenheit outside.) It's magical! To complete the experience, we wrapped up the meal with a serving of the homemade rice pudding. Sweet raisins, cardamon, saffron, and coconut gave this classic dish an extra dash of flavor.
Before embarking on our trip back out into the world, we decided to talk with Pramod about the history of the restaurant. He told us The House of India has been offering delicious, authentic Indian cuisine for 13 years now, 11 in its current location. People who find themselves in the Pittsfield area in the middle of the day can take advantage of the  restaurant's extensive lunch buffet. Last summer, everyone seemed to be talking about the exciting, jamb-packed "Bollywood nights" at House of India, complete with live Indian music. Even though it's a difficult time for restaurants everywhere, Pramod hints at the possibility of more such events this year when the weather gets a little warmer and going out is a little easier for people. I don't know, though, it sounds like the enthusiasm is already brewing. Later that evening, my Facebook status update read: "Cynthia loves House of India and its curry goodness." In no time I had the following unsolicited responses: "Me too....no other Indian restaurant compares!" and "It is fantastic--I could go for some right now!"
About Cynthia Quinones
Cynthia Saunders Quinones is a freelance writer and the Director of Education for the Barrington Stage Company. A North Adams native and current resident, she is excited to live within walking distance of her favorite restaurants, yoga studio, and movie theatre. She can be contacted at cynthia.saunders@gmail.com.
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