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                 Bombay Bar & Grill
                 by Bess Hochstein

 

August 2007

A few years back I wrote an article for The Boston Globe on the best kept secrets of the Berkshires. I opened the story with Bombay Bar & Grill, a then-overlooked Indian restaurant at the Black Swan Inn in Lee. These days, the secret is out; lovers of Indian cuisine flock to Bombay for an authentic, unusual taste of India.

Most Indian restaurants do a fine job with the “usual suspects:” crispy Samosa (for the uninitiated, they’re like fried, flavorful, tri-corner potato knishes), chicken Tandoori, Palak Paneer (long-cooked spinach with cubes of cheese), puffy Poori bread and the curries that are typical of Northern Indian cuisine. But Bombay reminds the diner that India is a huge country, with a vast array of distinct cuisines from its many regions. The menu roams the sub-continent to unveil a wide variety of different regional seasonings and styles of cooking. From Southern India, culinary explorers can discover the delicate crepe-like Dosa, or Medhu Vada – like savory doughnuts. I’m particularly fond of Ragara – highly seasoned potato patties – crispy, pungent Tamarind eggplant, and Uttapam, a vegetable pancake. And that’s just a sampling of the appetizer list!

Indian restaurants are well known for being vegetarian friendly, but Bombay goes a step further, offering not only vegetarian dishes but also a list of vegan options made without animal products – even excluding ubiquitous ingredients such as yogurt, cheese and ghee (clarified butter). Among these extensive lists, vegetarians will find Malai Kofta, dumplings in a rich sauce studded with cashews and almonds; Navaratam Korma, vegetables, pineapples and nuts in a creamy sauce; or Palak Chana, chick peas in spinach sauce. Vegans can opt for Green Beans and Lentils in a coconut sauce redolent of curry leaves and mustard seeds; Lassoni Gobi, like Chinese sweet & sour shrimp with fried cauliflower filling in for the shrimp; and Kunduapur Vegetables, plantains and other vegetables cooked with coconut milk, red chilies, curry leaves and mustard seed.

But meat-lovers are not forgotten. Bombay’s specialties include Tabaz-Maz, tandoori-cooked New Zealand rack of lamb; fish-of-the-day marinated, wrapped in banana leaf and pan grilled; and Meen Molee, coconut-crusted salmon or mahi-mahi cooked with curry leaves, mustard, tomato and spices. Other unfamiliar yet alluring fare includes Bombay’s signature Chicken Ammwala, a variation of the more common Chicken Tikka cooked with mango and spices; Chemeen Pappas, a shrimp specialty from Kerala with sautéed with dry chilies, coriander and coconut in a spicy tamarind sauce; Dalcha Lamb from Hyderabad, cooked in a yellow lentil sauce with tomato, bay leaves and ginger; and Malabar Addu Curry of goat with potato, carrot and coconut. Those are just a few of the more exotic selection; the menu also includes favorites such as tandoori-cooked kebabs, spicy vindaloo dishes and various curries.

To accompany these main courses, Bombay offers classic Indian breads -- including many varieties of tandoori-baked Nan and pan-grilled Paratha – as well as traditional basmati rice dishes known as Biryani plus the less-familiar Jalfrezi. Additional accompaniments include soups, salads, chutneys and Raita, a cooling yogurt sauce. Speaking of cooling, this summer I discovered another secret gem of the Berkshires: Bombay’s quenching Ginger Cosmopolitan. But beer also soothes the heat of summer and spices, and Bombay’s list includes not only Indian beers such as Kingfisher and Taj Mahal, but also selection of local Berkshire brews. In the evening, if you time it right, you can enjoy your meal in the golden light of sunset over Laurel Lake.

Bombay Bar & Grill is part of a group of Indian restaurants that also includes
a sister Bombay in Westport, Connecticut; Spice Root Modern Indian Cuisine in Williamstown; Chola in Manhattan; and several others in New York State and Connecticut. One of Bombay’s most popular features is its bounteous brunch buffet on Sundays, which draws customers from afar, including many from Albany’s Indian community. When I first discovered Bombay I was a Berkshire weekender, living in Housatonic, and going to Bombay was a special trip. Now that I live nearby in Tyringham, it’s my local favorite for a sit-down meal or for takeaway. But whether I dine in the restaurant’s cheery, sun-filled dining room, or in my own home with a take-out meal, dinner from Bombay Bar & Grill is always a special occasion.

 

About Bess Hochstein
Buzz chronicler Bess J.M. Hochstein came to the Berkshires as a second-homeowner before deciding to move here full time. Previously a communications executive, she's now a freelance writer living in Tyringham 
with her corgis Duffy and Hobbs and K. She writes for several publications, including Berkshire Living, the Boston Globe, New England Wine Gazette, and Healing Lifestyles & Spas magazine.

 

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