Table or Booth??

Bezalel Gables
by Bess Hochstein

It may be hard to imagine, but there are perhaps more talented chefs than cultural institutions in the Berkshires. And they’re not all found in the kitchens of the region’s outstanding restaurants and venerable inns. Sure, the Berkshires has its share of celebrity chefs, but working diligently – albeit more behind the scenes -- are the caterers. And with the advent of Spring, the services of these “hidden chefs” are much in demand for wedding season and all manner of summer party.

Last month one of these caterers threw his own party – or rather a series of parties. Over four nights, David Robinson, owner and Executive Chef of Bezalel Gables Fine Catering & Events, prepared a lavish 12-course meal (plus inventive hors d’oeuvres such as cream of chestnut and coconut soup with Madiera, and an amuse bouche of Armagnac-soaked prunes stuffed with duck breast paté) for about 35 guests each evening, mixing members of the local farming, cultural, journalistic, and political communities. These “Tastemakers Dinners” gave Robinson the opportunity to thank his supporters and suppliers and, at the same time, unveil his talents to the uninitiated.

These talents are prodigious; the seemingly never-ending procession of tasting courses – such as carrot/tangerine soup with diced beet garnish; miniature pheasant pot pies with local chanterelles, morels, vegetables and corn; and roasted pork tenderloin encrusted with hazelnut paste and unsweetened cocoa, accompanied by “Beets Wellington” (beets in filo dough with local ricotta) – revealed his creativity and uncanny ability to bring together ingredients that would seem incongruous in the hands of lesser chefs. Also on display was his sense of humor – with cocktails such as “You Can’t Get Blood from a Melon” cantaloupe martini with a splash of blood orange, and fanciful desserts including tiny cones of orange-chocolate cake and cotton candy – as well as an endless supply of antique dishes and clever Lilliputian serving ware.

To achieve the best flavors, Robinson relies on fresh, local ingredients whenever possible. He’s a member of Berkshire Grown, our local farm-to-table organization. He even chose regional wines to accompany the meal.

An enthusiastic home cook, Robinson left a high-powered career at a Manhattan advertising agency to pursue his passion. After making the dean’s list at the Culinary Institute of America and studying catering at Manhattan’s Institute for Culinary Education, Robinson purchased a 22-room, 1873 Queen Anne Victorian on 21 acres in Chatham, NY, and painstakingly restored it. Robinson uses this historic home for on-site events; clients appreciate the ornate architectural details including original woodwork, hardware, lighting fixtures, floors, and historically accurate wallpaper and decorative painting, as well as the pastoral setting and lush gardens. After just a few years in business, Bezalel Gables has already garnered an impressive client list, including Jacob’s Pillow, Shakespeare & Company, and events at Chesterwood and Stonover Farm Inn. Robinson works closely with his clients to create original menus, which also convey his creativity and sense of humor. With themes such as “Black Tie and Blue Jeans,” “Dinner at Your Fingertips,” and “A Midsummer Night’s Supper,” Robinson keeps his clients smiling with both amusement and sensory satisfaction.

About Bess Hochstein
Buzz chronicler Bess J.M. Hochstein came to the Berkshires as a second-homeowner before deciding to move here full time. Previously a communications executive, she's now a freelance writer living in Tyringham with her corgis Duffy and Hobbs and K. She writes for several publications, including Berkshire Living, the Boston Globe, New England Wine Gazette, and Healing Lifestyles & Spas magazine.