A Taste of History
By Cynthia Saunders Quinones
March 2009
How do we preserve the memories and traditions of our families? How do we carry our cultures with us across oceans, and, when we have arrived, how do we translate these cultures and keep them alive for future generations? 
How do we create new memories, new traditions, in a new community?
Recently, I found these questions flavoring my experience of a couple of first and second generation Italian restaurants right in the heart of Berkshire County. Both Mazzeo’s and Trattoria Rustica are just off the beaten path in Pittsfield, and yet each is its own destination, with its own remarkable history. These restaurants’ tales are as integral to their success as fresh ingredients are to the food and will be the subject of a two part column.
Mazzeo’s story begins like a fairy tale: More than half a century ago, two Italian brothers came to America and married two Italian sisters. One day, one of the brothers and his wife opened an Italian restaurant with the help of their children. Today, almost 21 years later, the restaurant lives on in the same location under the stewardship of the Mazzeo’s two sons, Tony and Michael. Although the family’s immigration to the United States occurred more than fifty years ago, the authentic traditions of the past are kept alive every day, both in the food and atmosphere of the restaurant.
Mazzeo’s menu has evolved over time, though many things remain original. For example, the classic Mazzeo
Chicken Pastina Soup, which I had the great pleasure of trying, is a family recipe that has long been in circulation here. Lee Silverman, the restaurant’s chef, has been running the kitchen for the past 19 years, where the food remains as fresh as ever. Much of what is served is made onsite, including breads, dressings, soups and even the pasta.
All of the pasta is made a few times each week solely by Mrs. Mazzeo, who protectively guards the large pasta machine it is crafted on. Mazzeo’s is most famous for its cavatelli, a thin shell pasta featured in a variety of main dishes, such as the Cavatelli Al Forno (cavatelli baked with sweet sausage, chicken, mozzarella, and marinara). After trying the light and flavorful cavatelli special with scallops, shrimp, roasted red peppers and asparagus, tossed in oil and seasoned with fresh garlic, I can understand why.
Mazzeo’s atmosphere glows with a welcoming, family friendly coziness: mirrors, wooden paneling, and brick walls edged with twinkling lights and ivy make the environment as hospitable as the owners and staff.
Throughout the establishment, signs of the Mazzeo family heritage are abundant. Though Tony and Michael’s father passed away six years ago, his character is lovingly infused in the restaurant’s atmosphere for all its guests to see. In direct tribute, his black and white photo adorns the cover of the menu, but there are other, more subtle traces of his image, too. 
About ten years ago, when the Mazzeo’s decided to have a classic Italian mural painted on the back wall, Tony and Michael secretly had their parents’ likenesses painted into picture as though they were floating along in the gondola.
Throughout my visit, it was a pleasure to watch Tony and Michael greeting their familiar customers. Mazzeo’s is a place for friends to gather together, and Tony and Michael wouldn’t have it any other way.
There are so many great layers of history right under our own noses, or in this case on the tips of our tongues. Stay tuned for next month’s tale of culinary cultural preservation in the Berkshires -- Trattoria Rustica.
About Cynthia Quinones
Cynthia Saunders Quinones is a freelance writer and the Director of Education for the Barrington Stage Company. A North Adams native and current resident, she is excited to live within walking distance of her favorite restaurants, yoga studio, and movie theatre. She can be contacted at cynthia.saunders@gmail.com.